A gallery recording the trip to Panorama Ridge.

Recorded on Strava, the entire trip covered 20.5 miles with a 5,500 ft elevation gain and took 7h 30min of moving time. We departed from the Rubble Creek Trailhead, took a detour to the Garibaldi Lake Campground, summited the iconic Panorama Ridge, and returned via the Taylor Meadows Trail.

By the end of October, permits were no longer needed. The parking lot was mostly empty at night since fewer people chose to spend the night there. The temperature was only a couple of degrees above freezing, but there was no wind. I camped there and had a sound sleep with the sound of Rubble Creek rumbling all night long.

We set out at around 5 AM, but the sun didn’t rise until after 7 AM, when we had already passed the Garibaldi Lake Campground. The moon was still high in the sky, and the lake water was tranquil.

Along the trail, many small ponds had already frozen over. However, after doing some research on Garibaldi Lake, it seems that the lake does not always freeze over during winter.

Once above the treeline, the hike began to reveal its true beauty. The landscape was a frozen tableau, with frost and snow partially covering the ground, leaving patches of bushes, dirt, and streams exposed. The distant mountain ranges were already capped with snow — some peaks were home to glaciers.

And then, the Black Tusk appeared. So distinctive and identifiable is this monumental rock that one simply cannot tear their gaze away from it. This was the first time I had been so close to it — normally, I would admire it from a distance, from the top of the Peak Express at Whistler Blackcomb.

It is said that the original name T’ákt’akmúten tl’a In’inyáxa7n means “Landing Place of the Thunderbird“. I could imagine how the native people would regard this with the utmost respect.

Eventually, after hiking up an exposed rock trail, the entirety of Garibaldi Lake unfolded before us. Until this point, the entire trail was a very typical Pacific Northwest hike, with most sections winding through forests, and finally emerging above the treeline. However, to observe a lake so vast and so vividly green, encircled by glaciers, is truly astounding. Just after summer, the glaciers were though at their smallest size.

Here are the surrounding peaks: The Sphinx, Guard Mountain, Glacier Pikes, Mount Garibaldi, The Table, Mount Price, Clinker Peak.

The overall hiking experience reminded me of our famous Enchantments Thru-Hike. Although this trail surpasses The Enchantments in both length and elevation gain, it is so well-maintained and designed that it feels much less strenuous. Even the final section proved to be far less challenging than the climb up Aasgard Pass. Nevertheless, I must admit that The Enchantment Lakes remain at the pinnacle of my Pacific Northwest list as an alpine wonderland.

Mount Tantalus rises like a colossal wall, with Garibaldi Lake sprawling in the foreground.

Here are some photos of myself and our cherished group. This is my first hiking trip in the Vancouver area, and it’s definitely been a great one. Now, I’m beginning to mark more and more destinations for future trips.

清晨6点从此行高光的酒店出发，坐上接驳车去往Cusco往返Puno的大巴接驳点。一路从Cusco老城开出来，穿过Cusco新城，来到机场附近的一处不起眼的平房附近，穿过平房坐上大巴车，当天一路的高原行车旅程正式开始。

这个大巴行程一路会经停几处平时不容易专程前往的小镇和景点，如果行程时间不赶，这趟行程很值得推荐。清早第一站是教堂（San Pedro Apóstol de Andahuaylillas Church），此次秘鲁之行一路遇到很多教堂，这座也不例外，“鸠占鹊巢”，西班牙人在原有的当地印加人的祭祀神庙之上盖起了自己的建筑，只留下地基依稀可以辨认出不同时代的痕迹。教堂内部金碧辉煌，处处佐证着当时胜利者的傲慢。教堂内部虽然不允许拍照，但藤校耶鲁大学的学生还是有幸公费旅游到此处，留下了各种高清以及全景照片存档。

教堂后院放着些花花草草，在这样强烈的阳光下肆意生长，除了一个收费的洗手间，还有一个免费的小博物馆，陈列有当地特色的秘鲁玉米。

第二站抵达的小镇（Raqch’i）更有看点，一片残垣断壁（the Temple of Wiracocha），一座座没有了顶的圆形谷仓，这些石土堆砌而成的结构就这样伫立在这片高原之上。这里找到了一本小册子详细讲述了这个神庙的由来、结构、各种细节，或者如果你好奇Wiracocha是谁/什么（海洋的泡沫？），可以查一下这部印加词典。

行车包含了一顿自助午饭，其中还有一份炸猪五花，虽然偶尔会吃到一点腥膻气，但大体还是不错的。歇脚的地方还能看到远处铁路大桥建起后形成的人工瀑布。

下午一路开入更荒芜的高原，左右两旁都是高耸的山峦，难以想象现在行车的这条路已经4000米以上的海拔，仍然行驶在安第斯山谷之中。行至拉雅垭口（Abra La Raya），是一处观景点，也是Cusco和Puno的分界点，远处的冰川（Chimboya）颇为壮丽。此处是整条线路的最高点，海拔到达4338米。许多摊贩在此等待游客，可惜全车人几乎没有慷慨解囊的，不知道他们一天能够达成多少交易。

傍晚时分最后在Pucara的一处很迷你的博物馆短暂停靠后，穿过Juliaca在太阳落山后来到了Puno。一日行程，早晚的住宿天差地别。短暂休息后，我们散步抵达城市的中心广场，旁边找了一家评分和位置颇为不错的饭店（Mojsas Restaurant）结束一天行程。

不知如何形容Puno这座“城市”，依山傍水，可惜山上几乎没有树木，“城市”的建筑为了更好地融入地貌之中，墙面都直接裸露着红砖，或者直接是灰白色，没有太多带有粉饰。用“线”坐单位的话，不知道算不算得上十八线。如果按人口应该没问题，但是如果按照发展程度，即使放在上个世纪，也还需要打个问号。

中心教堂自然是城里最高的建筑物（后来才发现好像在新城区有些高楼），除此之外，所有的房屋大都两层左右，三层或者堆放杂物，或者是一些未完工的状态。晚上出乎意料的散步的人很多，看样子也大都是本地人，大概是家中生活娱乐选择不多，不如出来吹吹晚风消消食。这让我想到了我小时候饭后散步的样子，当然即使是二三十年前的杭州，与这里也是大相径庭的。

附图数张——包括酒店房间窗外一角，酒店房间厕所一角，酒店房间一角，酒店一角。

读完郁达夫《春风沉醉的晚上》，回想最近也在“夏风”中沉醉了一晚。说来奇怪，有“春风”，“秋风”，“东风”，却偏偏独没有这“夏风”的说法，想来也许是因为在高温下，空气的流动难以找寻到存在感了吧。原文的故事平淡温情，很是契合这春天的晚上，倒是这沉醉一词让我思考。内心平稳安定，健康逐渐恢复，思绪漫无涯涘，胃口由面包半磅变为一磅，这样数日的夜游的确令人沉醉。不是神志不清不省人事的沉醉，而是神清气爽的沉醉。

我不常夜游，八成是因为小时家教关系，父母睡得早，家里自然有类似“宵禁”的习惯，九点十点还在外面就已经是需要再三报备的了。二成的原因可能是懒，也可能是不常有同愿夜游的人。大学时候，有一段时间时长出去宵夜，午夜十分约上朋友压马路去24小时营业的麦当劳，那个时候应该是我的夜游鼎盛了。晚上的街，只剩路灯，放声聊天，应该是最原始的自由和快乐。

白天世间纷纷扰扰，头脑被各种眼见的耳听的讯息填充而无法得以喘息，待到深夜，眼耳清净，大脑腾出了算力可以开始放飞自我胡乱思想，于是各种开心的不开心的全都涌上心头。此时此刻，如果有一两个未寝的“张怀民”，当属人生幸事。

Here are photos captured en route to Mt Fremont Fire Lookout on August 11th, undoubtedly a perfect vantage point to enjoy Mount Rainier against the backdrop of the Milky Way. The one-hour casual hike began just before sunset, following the path of the Sourdough Ridge Trail towards the Frozen Lake, and then transitioning to the Mt Fremont Trail leading us to the fire lookout. There, we spent an hour or two before returning under the midnight sky.